Bearded Dragon Care Guide: Setup, Diet & Health

Species Overview

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The bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) is arguably the most personable reptile in the pet trade.

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Native to the semi-arid woodlands and deserts of central Australia, they are diurnal (day-active), highly interactive, and capable of recognizing individual humans.

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They are not a "low maintenance" reptile. The proper UVB and temperature requirements are demanding, and dietary needs shift dramatically with age. But for keepers willing to invest in the right setup, they offer unmatched personality.

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Here's the Thing: Bearded dragons need significant upfront investment in equipment — especially UVB. Cutting corners on lighting leads directly to metabolic bone disease.

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Enclosure Requirements

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Adults require a minimum 4'×2'×2' (120 gallon) enclosure. The old "40-gallon breeder is enough" advice is outdated. These are active lizards that use every inch of space.

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Life Stage	Minimum Enclosure
Hatchling (0–4 months)	20-gallon long
Juvenile (4–12 months)	40-gallon breeder
Adult (12+ months)	4'×2'×2' (120 gallon)

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Equipment You Need

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Item	Recommendation	Cost
Enclosure	4'×2'×2' PVC or glass	$200–500
UVB	T5 HO 10.0 tube, 2/3 enclosure length	$40–70
Basking bulb	Halogen flood, 75–150W on dimming thermostat	$15
Thermometer ×2	Digital probe on warm + cool side	$10
IR temp gun	For spot-checking basking surface	$20
Substrate	Tile, shelf liner, or arid bioactive mix	$10–40

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Step-by-Step Enclosure Setup

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1. Choose the enclosure: For adults, use a 4'×2'×2' PVC or glass tank. PVC holds heat better and is lighter.
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2. Install the UVB tube: Mount a T5 HO 10.0 tube inside the enclosure, spanning at least 2/3 of the length, positioned over the basking area. If using a screen top, mount inside because mesh blocks 30–50% of UVB.
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3. Set up the basking spot: Place a halogen flood bulb (75–150W) on one end, connected to a dimming thermostat. Aim for a basking surface temperature of 100–110°F (38–43°C).
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4. Create a temperature gradient: Place the heat source on one side, leaving the other side cooler. Use digital probe thermometers on both ends to verify ambient temperatures.
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5. Add substrate: Use tile, shelf liner, or an arid bioactive mix. Avoid loose substrate for juveniles (under 12 months) to prevent impaction.
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6. Provide hides and decor: Add a cave or hide on the cool side, plus branches and rocks for climbing. Ensure basking platforms are stable.
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7. Set up a timer: Connect UVB and basking lights to a timer for 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
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Common Setup Mistakes

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• Using a coil UVB bulb: These do not provide adequate UVB output. Always use a T5 tube.
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• Placing UVB too far: If the UVB is more than 18 inches from the basking surface (through mesh), the dragon won't get enough UVB.
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• Not using a thermostat: Unregulated basking bulbs can overheat and cause burns.
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• Using loose substrate for babies: This can lead to impaction if ingested.
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UVB Lighting

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This is the single most important piece of equipment — and the most commonly done wrong.

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• Tube type: T5 HO (not T8 — too weak).
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• Strength: 10.0 or 12% UVB (e.g., Arcadia 12% Desert).
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• Placement: Over basking area. For screen-top enclosures, mount inside — mesh blocks 30–50% of UVB.
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• Distance: 12–18" from basking surface (through mesh), or 18–24" without mesh.
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• Replacement: Every 6–12 months. UVB output degrades before the bulb appears dim.
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• Photoperiod: 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Use a timer.
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Why UVB Is Critical

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UVB radiation in the 290–315 nm range (UVB) is essential for the synthesis of vitamin D3 in the skin. Without adequate UVB, bearded dragons cannot absorb dietary calcium, leading to metabolic bone disease (MBD). MBD is irreversible once severe, causing deformed limbs, soft jaw, tremors, and eventually death. The T5 HO 10.0 tube is the industry standard because it delivers sufficient UVB at a safe distance.

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UVB Troubleshooting

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• Bulb still glows but dragon is lethargic? Replace the bulb if it's older than 12 months. UVB output degrades over time.
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• Dragon is not basking under UVB? Ensure the basking surface is within the recommended distance and that the UVB overlaps the basking spot.
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• Using a mesh top? Mount the UVB inside the enclosure to avoid mesh blockage.
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Temperature Gradient

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Zone	Temperature (°F)	Temperature (°C)
Basking surface	100–110°F	38–43°C
Warm side ambient	85–95°F	29–35°C
Cool side	75–85°F	24–29°C
Night	65–75°F	18–24°C

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Use a halogen flood bulb for basking — it produces the most natural infrared spectrum. Avoid ceramic heat emitters for daytime; they only produce IR-C (long-wave), which penetrates tissue unnaturally. Use a dimming thermostat for the basking bulb.

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How to Measure Temperatures Correctly

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Use two digital probe thermometers: one on the warm side, one on the cool side. Place the probes at the level where the dragon actually sits (e.g., on the basking platform). Also use an infrared temperature gun to spot-check the basking surface itself, as ambient temperatures can differ from surface temperatures.

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Nighttime Temperature Management

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At night, temperatures should drop to 65–75°F (18–24°C). If your home drops below that, use a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) connected to a thermostat, but only if needed. Avoid colored "night bulbs" as they disrupt the dragon's sleep cycle.

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Diet & Nutrition

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Diet shifts dramatically with age:

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Age	Insects	Greens/Vegetables	Feeding Frequency
0–6 months	70%	30%	Insects 2–3× daily
6–12 months	50%	50%	Insects 1–2× daily
12+ months	30%	70%	Insects 3–4× per week

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Staple feeders: Dubia roaches, crickets, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae.

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Occasional/treat: Superworms, mealworms, hornworms (hydrating treat).

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Never feed: Wild-caught insects (pesticides, parasites), fireflies (fatal toxin), avocado, onion, garlic, citrus, rhubarb.

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Daily greens: Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, turnip greens. Occasional: butternut squash, bell pepper, snap peas.

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How to Prepare Salads

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1. Wash greens thoroughly.
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2. Chop into bite-sized pieces (smaller than the space between the dragon's eyes).
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3. Mix 2–3 types of greens for variety.
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4. Add occasional vegetables like butternut squash or bell pepper.
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5. Offer fresh salad daily, removing uneaten portions after a few hours.
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Feeding Schedule by Age

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• Hatchlings (0–6 months): Offer insects 2–3 times daily, plus a small salad. Allow 10–15 minutes of insect feeding per session.
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• Juveniles (6–12 months): Insects 1–2 times daily, plus a larger salad. Reduce insect frequency gradually.
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• Adults (12+ months): Insects 3–4 times per week, with a daily salad. Monitor weight to prevent obesity.
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Common Diet Mistakes

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• Feeding too many insects to adults: This leads to obesity and fatty liver disease.
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• Offering only iceberg lettuce: It has little nutritional value. Use dark leafy greens.
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• Feeding wild-caught insects: Risk of pesticide exposure and parasites.
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• Giving fruit too often: Fruit is high in sugar; limit to occasional treats.
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Supplements

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• Calcium (no D3): Lightly dust insects at every feeding for juveniles, 3–4×/week for adults.
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• Calcium with D3: 2×/week for juveniles (if no UVB access — but they should have UVB).
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• Multivitamin: 1–2×/week for juveniles, 1×/week for adults.
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How to Dust Insects

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1. Place insects in a plastic bag or container.
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2. Add a small amount of supplement powder.
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3. Shake gently to coat the insects evenly.
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4. Feed immediately to avoid the powder falling off.
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Supplement Schedule by Age

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Age	Calcium (no D3)	Calcium with D3	Multivitamin
Juvenile (0–12 months)	Every feeding	2×/week	1–2×/week
Adult (12+ months)	3–4×/week	2×/week (if needed)	1×/week

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Common Health Issues

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• Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Soft jaw, tremors, deformed limbs. Caused by inadequate UVB + calcium. Irreversible once severe; prevention is everything.
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• Respiratory Infection: Wheezing, gaping, mucus. Caused by low temps or high humidity (>50%).
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• Impaction: Caused by loose substrate ingestion or oversized feeders. Symptoms: lethargy, no bowel movements.
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• Adenovirus (ADV): Highly contagious, often fatal in juveniles. Test new animals.
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Recognizing Early Signs of Illness

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• Lethargy: Reduced activity or lack of appetite could indicate UVB issues, parasites, or infection.
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• Abnormal feces: Runny, bloody, or no feces for several days may signal parasites or impaction.
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• Skin issues: Shedding problems, discoloration, or lesions may indicate fungal infections or burns.
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• Behavior changes: Gaping (mouth open) could be a sign of respiratory infection or overheating.
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Preventive Health Checklist

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• Replace UVB bulb every 6–12 months.
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• Monitor temperatures daily using digital probes.
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• Keep humidity below 50% (use a hygrometer).
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• Quarantine new animals for at least 30 days.
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• Schedule annual vet check-ups with a reptile vet.
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What Beginners Often Get Wrong

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1. Inadequate UVB: A coil bulb in a dome fixture is not sufficient. It must be a T5 tube covering most of the enclosure.
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2. Feeding too many insects to adults: Adult beardies need mostly greens. Obesity is epidemic in captive dragons.
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3. Loose substrate for juveniles: Paper towels or tile until at least 12 months old.
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4. No quarantine for new animals: Adenovirus spreads rapidly through collections.
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5. Colored "night bulbs": Disrupts sleep. No visible light at night.
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Seasonal Care: Brumation & Seasonal Adjustments

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Bearded dragons may undergo a period of reduced activity called brumation, typically during the cooler months. This is a natural response to seasonal changes in temperature and light. During brumation, your dragon may eat less, sleep more, and hide for weeks or even months.

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How to Support Your Dragon During Brumation

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• Recognize the signs: Reduced appetite, increased sleeping, and seeking cooler areas of the enclosure are common. Ensure your dragon is otherwise healthy (no weight loss, no abnormal feces) before assuming brumation.
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• Adjust temperatures slightly: You can lower the basking temperature by about 5–10°F during brumation, but still maintain the minimum nighttime temperature of 65°F (18°C) to prevent illness.
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• Keep UVB on the same schedule: Even if your dragon is less active, keep the UVB on for 8–10 hours per day to maintain its circadian rhythm.
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• Offer food occasionally: Provide fresh salad and a few insects every few days, but don't force feeding. Some dragons will eat sporadically.
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• Monitor weight weekly: Weigh your dragon weekly to ensure it's not losing more than 10% of its body weight. If it loses more, consult a reptile vet.
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When Brumation Ends

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As days lengthen and temperatures rise, your dragon will gradually become more active. Increase basking temperatures back to normal, offer more food, and ensure fresh water is available. Some dragons may need a few weeks to fully resume normal eating.

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Cost Breakdown: What to Budget for a Bearded Dragon

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Bearded dragons require a significant initial investment, plus ongoing costs. Here's a realistic breakdown based on the equipment and supplies mentioned above:

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Category	Initial Cost	Annual Recurring Cost
Enclosure (4'×2'×2')	$200–500	—
UVB T5 HO fixture + bulb	$40–70	$40–70 (bulb replacement every 6–12 months)
Basking bulb (halogen flood)	$15	$15–30 (replace as needed)
Thermostat (dimming)	$30–60	—
Thermometers & hygrometer	$20–30	—
Substrate (tile or liner)	$10–40	$0–20 (occasional replacement)
Food (insects + greens)	—	$200–400 (depending on age and source)
Supplements (calcium, vitamins)	—	$30–60
Vet check-up (annual)	—	$50–150

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Total estimated first-year cost: $500–1,200 (including enclosure and setup). Ongoing annual cost: $300–700. Budgeting for these costs ensures you can provide proper care without cutting corners.

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Troubleshooting Common Problems

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Why Is My Bearded Dragon Not Eating?

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Loss of appetite can stem from several issues:

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• UVB bulb expired: Replace if older than 12 months. Lack of UVB reduces appetite.
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• Temperatures too low: Check basking surface (100–110°F) and cool side (75–85°F). Low temps slow digestion.
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• Impaction: If no bowel movements, consider loose substrate ingestion or oversized feeders.
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• Illness: Parasites, respiratory infection, or adenovirus may cause appetite loss. Consult a vet if symptoms persist.
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• Brumation: If it's winter and your dragon is otherwise healthy, it may be brumating.
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Why Is My Bearded Dragon Glass Surfing?

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Glass surfing (scratching at the glass) often indicates stress or boredom. Check for:

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• Reflection: Cover three sides of the enclosure with a background to reduce reflection.
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• Enclosure too small: Ensure adults have at least 4'×2'×2'.
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• Temperature stress: Verify the gradient is correct; too hot or too cold can cause restlessness.
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• Need for enrichment: Add climbing branches, hides, or rearrange decor to stimulate exploration.
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Why Is My Bearded Dragon's Skin Turning Dark?

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Darkening can be normal thermoregulation (absorbing heat) or a sign of stress. If the dragon is dark all over and not basking, check temperatures and look for signs of illness. If it's dark only on the beard, that's often a display behavior (e.g., during dominance or stress).

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Frequently Asked Questions

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What is the minimum enclosure size for an adult bearded dragon?

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Adults require a minimum 4'×2'×2' (120 gallon) enclosure. Hatchlings (0–4 months) need a 20-gallon long, and juveniles (4–12 months) need a 40-gallon breeder.

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Why is UVB lighting considered non-negotiable for bearded dragons?

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UVB lighting is essential for bearded dragons to synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease, which is irreversible once severe. A T5 HO 10.0 tube spanning 2/3 of the enclosure is required, and bulbs must be replaced every 6–12 months even if they still glow.

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How does the diet of a bearded dragon change with age?

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For hatchlings 0–6 months, the diet is 70% insects and 30% greens, with insects fed 2–3 times daily. Juveniles 6–12 months have a 50/50 split with insects 1–2 times daily. Adults 12+ months shift to 70% greens and 30% insects, with insects fed only 3–4 times per week.

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What are the recommended basking and cool side temperatures for a bearded dragon enclosure?

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The basking surface should be 100–110°F (38–43°C), the warm side ambient 85–95°F (29–35°C), and the cool side 75–85°F (24–29°C). Nighttime temperatures should drop to 65–75°F (18–24°C). Use a halogen flood bulb for basking with a dimming thermostat.

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What is brumation and how should I handle it?

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Brumation is a natural period of reduced activity during cooler months. Signs include reduced appetite, increased sleeping, and hiding. Support your dragon by keeping UVB on a schedule, offering food occasionally, and monitoring weight weekly. If weight loss exceeds 10%, consult a vet.

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How much does it cost to keep a bearded dragon?

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The initial setup (including enclosure and equipment) costs $200–500 for the enclosure alone, with total first-year costs around $500–1,200. Ongoing annual costs are approximately $300–700, covering food, supplements, bulb replacements, and vet check-ups.

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What should I do if my bearded dragon stops eating?

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First, check if the UVB bulb is older than 12 months and replace if needed. Verify temperatures are within the recommended ranges. Look for signs of impaction (no bowel movements) or illness. If the dragon is otherwise healthy and it's winter, it may be brumating. If symptoms persist, consult a reptile vet.

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Related Reading

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• Reptile UVB Lighting Guide: Ferguson Zones & Bulb Selection — Everything you need to know about UVB for desert reptiles.
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• 10 Common Reptile Health Issues & How to Prevent Them — Spot MBD and respiratory infections early.
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• Bearded Dragon Not Eating? 8 Common Causes & Solutions — Troubleshoot appetite and brumation confusion.
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• bearded dragon salad guide — which greens, how much, how often.

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